Making and Using Potions to Flavor Your Homebrew

Man making potionEvery homebrewer gets the urge at some point to add a little something special to their beer. I’m guessing it has to do with the fact that you can easily find a stout at the store, but a mint chocolate stout? Now that’s something special!
One popular way of adding flavors to homebrew is what Randy Mosher calls a potion. This is essentially a mixture of alcohol and whatever flavoring ingredient you want in your beer. Another term for this is an extract. That’s what this post is about, how to make and use these potions or extract to flavor your homebrews.
So what kinds of potions can you make?
Though you can make a potion out of just about anything, here are a few of the most common:

  • vanilla
  • cacao/chocolate
  • orange peel
  • mint
  • cardamom
  • coffee
  • licorice

The main benefit of using a potion or extract is that it’s easy to adjust how much of the flavor you want in the beer. It can be difficult, for example, to figure out how much flavor three vanilla beans might bring to your vanilla porter. With an extract of vanilla bean, all you have to do is take a sample of beer and use a dropper to measure how much of the potion is needed to reach the intensity of flavor you want. Then you scale up to figure out how much to add to your batch.
The main drawback of using a potion is that it takes some foresight. To fully extract the flavor from your ingredient of choice, you will need to let it soak in alcohol for at least a week, ideally three or four. This means that if you plan to add your potion at bottling time, it should be prepared on brew day or even several days before. Just be sure to use a digital scale to measure how much of the ingredient you added to the jar. Save this information in your brewing notes so you can recreate the potion if you want to.

Beer with chocolate cake and raspberriesHow to Add a Potion to Your Homebrew

  1. Choose a flavoring ingredient that will blend well with your beer style.
  2. Buy some cheap vodka or similar alcohol.
  3. Put the ingredient in a mason jar and pour in enough liquor to fully cover the ingredient.
  4. Let sit for about three weeks.
  5. When it’s time to add the potion to your beer (usually bottling day), take a measured sample of beer for a taste test.
  6. Use a measured dropper or pipette (ideally in fractions of a milliliter) to add small amounts of potion to the beer until desired flavor is reached.
  7. Scale up to figure out how much potion to add to your homebrew.

Example:
Let’s say you find that 1 mL of potion is ideal for eight ounces of beer. There are 80, eight-ounce servings in five gallons of beer, so add 80 mL of potion to your homebrew.
Sounds easy enough, right?
Making flavor extracts for your homebrew is just one more way to add a lot of fun to the process. It’s one more avenue for a lot of creativity. What kind of beer would you make with your homemade potion?
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Our 10 Most Popular Homebrewing Posts on Pinterest

Pinterest is a visually oriented social network for people to discover and share interesting content. Over the past several months, we’ve been putting together various collections of pins including beer recipes, homebrew techniques, homebrewing books, and more. I, for one, have found dozens of great beer recipes on Pinterest.
As an indication of what other people have found most helpful and interesting, these are some of our most popular homebrewing posts on Pinterest. The links below take you to the pin on Pinterest. Just click the image for each one to take you to the blog post.

  1. Making Hard Cider at HomeAre you gluten-free? Have a significant other who doesn’t like beer (yet)? Cider is quickly rising in popularity, both commercially and for homebrewers. This blog post is a walk-through for making a basic hard cider.
  1. 10 Tips for a Successful Secondary Fermentation – Secondary fermentation is a period where beer conditions and ages. It’s a good time to add dry hops or spices to give you’re a beer a little something special. Learn just a few of the things you can do to make your secondary fermentation a good one.
  1. A Simple Guide to Making Fruit Beers – Most, if not all, homebrewers like to experiment by adding interesting ingredients to their beer. Want to make a cherry porter or an apricot pale ale? Learn what your options are in terms of adding fruit to homebrew.
  1. The Difference Between Two-Row and Six-Row Barley – Barley malt is a key ingredient in beer, but there are two different types of barley. Do you know the difference between two-row and six-row barley?
  1. 6 Tips for Improving Mash Efficiency – If you’re an all-grain brewer, you mash efficiency determines your original gravity, which affects alcohol content and body. Additionally, a consistent mash efficiency makes it easier to formulate recipes and plan ingredient purchases. Check out these six ways to improve your mash efficiency.
  1. Heat Up Your Homebrewing with Chili Peppers! – Yet another popular beer addition is hot peppers. This chipotle porter recipe is one of my all-time favorites. In this blog post, guest blogger Bryan Roth shares some tips for using hot pepper in your homebrew.
  1. Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale Clone Recipe – One of my all-time favorite commercial beers is Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale. It’s a fresh hop IPA that comes out every year around Thanksgiving. The beer is made using Chinook, Centennial, and Cascade hops as soon as they come out of the field.
  1. Braggot Beer Recipe – Braggot is a mead/beer hybrid, traditionally flavored with a variety of herbs and spices. This recipe includes both an all-grain and an extract version of a braggot recipe by Randy Mosher.
  1. 5 Rookie Mistakes Made By Beginning Homebrewers – If you’re a new homebrewer, there’s a wealth of information that can help you avoid some common pitfalls and potentially ruin a batch. Learn from these five rookie mistakes and you’ll be well on your way to making great beer!
  1. How to Fill Your Homebrew Beer Keg – Serious homebrewers like to put their beer on draft, but the new equipment and pressurized gas side of the equation can make people uncomfortable. It’s easier than you think! This post walks you through exactly what you need to do to fill your keg with homebrew.

Are you active on Pinterest? Follow E. C. Kraus on Pinterest for all the latest homebrewing updates.
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Cloning Ithaca Beer Co.'s Flower Power–Pt. 6: A Conditioning Taste Test

kegged, original, and bottled samples of Ithaca Brewing Co. Flower Power IPAOne of the hardest parts of homebrewing is the waiting – especially after the beer has been bottled or kegged. But this is an important time for the beer. You could call it a “self discovery” phase. Brewers call it conditioning.

About Conditioning
Conditioning is an important phase of the brewing process. Commercial breweries typically employ both a warm and a cold conditioning period. This can be compared to homebrewers doing both a secondary fermentation (warm, at normal fermenting temperatures), followed by a cold conditioning phase (“cold crashing” or lagering). These two phases can be applied to both ales and lagers.
So what happens during the conditioning phase?

A few things:

  • The final stages of fermentation, where the last remaining sugars are converted to alcohol and CO2
  • Yeast “cleans up” the beer by reducing certain flavor compounds (see diacetyl), and continues to do so after bottling/kegging (less so if the beer has been filtered)
  • Settling of various compounds (proteins, yeast, etc.) to aid in beer clarity.

While the beer is still conditioning, it is often referred to as “green beer”.

So back to the Flower Power clone and my struggle with patience…
I was curious to see how the beer is progressing, so I did a taste test with the kegged beer, the bottled beer, and the original Flower Power. I was especially antsy because people always says that IPAs be enjoyed fresh (e.g. Stone’s “Enjoy By” IPA). But how fresh is too fresh? At what point does an IPA reach its peak?
The trouble with this line of thinking is that there are just too many variables at play to develop a hard and fast rule. Among the many variations that can affect flavor perception include:

  • hop varieties
  • hop quantities
  • shop beer recipe kitsmalt variety
  • original gravity
  • final gravity
  • water source
  • yeast selection
  • yeast pitch rate
  • fermentation temperature
  • yeast flocculation
  • kegged or bottle conditioned
  • age

Not to mention variations in the brewing process. So with the knowledge that this experiment is inherently flawed, let’s see what we have.

Appearance
The most remarkable difference between the three beers is the clarity. Not surprisingly, the original Flower Power is much clearer than the clones. That’s a commercial beer and it’s probably filtered. Interestingly, the kegged beer is much murkier than the bottled beer, making it appear quite a bit darker than the original Flower Power. This makes sense because when beer is served from the keg, it’s served from the bottom, where all the yeast and whatnot settles. Bottles, on the other hand, are served from the top, away from all the sediment. Given enough time, I suspect that the kegged beer should meet or surpass the bottled beer in clarity, and when that happens, the color should more closely resemble the original Flower Power.

Aroma
The Flower Power exhibits more sweet orange hop aroma, while the clone has more of a grapefruit and pine character. Interestingly, the bottled clone seems to offer slightly more malt aroma.

Flavor
Because the original Flower Power has had significantly more time to age (bottles were purchased four months ago) it’s hard to make comparisons. Still, the weeks and months that go by don’t seem to diminish the hop character in the Flower Power. With the clones, the flavor profile is remarkably similar to the original, but it’s obvious that they need more time to condition. The bitterness is slightly harsh and I detect a slight solvent/alcoholic character. While it’s tempting to overthink the situation and try to identify potential faults, I’m going to do my best to “Relax, don’t worry, have a homebrew,” just like Charlie Papazian likes to say, and give the beer more time to condition.
So, we’ll give the Flower Power clone another week or two and then do another side-by-side. Until then, I’ll be enjoying my Captain Cogsworth Coffee Stout!
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Review the whole Flower Power clone brewing process below:

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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Checking on My Mead: Secondary Fermentation

Mead in a glassThree months ago I made my very first mead. I gathered some tips and advice before brewing, and was pleasantly surprised by how easy the process was.
As recommended by Michael Fairbrother, I racked my mead to the secondary fermenter after three months in primary. Here it will sit for a while longer (if I can stand the wait), but how long should the mead stay in secondary? Let’s go ahead and transfer, take a gravity reading, and give the mead a taste.
Procedures for Racking to Secondary

  1. Clean and sanitize the new fermenter (for a one-gallon batch, I’m using a one-gallon glass jug), racking tube, auto-siphon, new bung and airlock
  2. Rack to fermenter – Take care not to aerate the mead. This can cause oxidation, which essentially makes the mead go stale.
  3. Withhold about 3/4 cup for testing (and tasting!)
  4. Take a hydrometer reading and do a taste test!

*If you are serious about making mead or small batch brewing, these tools can make sampling and testing so much easier: Wine thief, Refractometer.
Notes on the Mead

As you can imagine, after three months in the fermenter I was pretty excited to check out my mead. Here’s what I found:

  • Appearance is pretty clear in the bucket. No floaters, very little yeast sediment, just a little yeast stuck around the sides of the bucket. Hydrometer sample has just a little haze, but not much.
  • Upon opening the bucket, I got a waft of apple aroma – in beer this would be a no-no, but I suspect it’s normal in making mead. This didn’t really carry over to the taste.
  • Taste – First I got the honey character, somewhat fruity but without the sweetness, followed by the gentle burn of alcohol, then graham cracker finish. Very nice!
  • Gravity – Spot on the 1.000 mark – perhaps just a touch of residual sugar in there.

So, moving the mead to secondary…when will it be “ready”?
According to the AHA website: “It is up to the meadmaker how long they want to bulk-age before bottling. A few weeks to a few months is a good place to start.”
Another enthusiast siteShop Wine Yeast recommends the following: “The length of secondary fermentation varies, and it is okay to rack the must as many times as necessary to separate the mead from the lees. When you are satisfied with your mead, it is time to bottle.“ The site continues: “Store your mead in a cool dark place and let it age. It can be hard to judge when a mead will reach its peak so have fun sampling your wares from time to time. Congratulations on brewing your first batch of mead at home!”
So it seems that aging mead is a pretty subjective process!
In my opinion, the mead already tastes great. I don’t think I will add any tannin, acid, or other flavorings. I’ll give it a few more weeks in secondary before I bottle, then note how the mead changes over time as I drink it!
I can’t get over how easy this mead was! I think it’s time to get another – larger – batch started!
Are you a mead maker? At what point do you find that your mead reaches peak flavor?
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Now Offering: More Malted Brewing Grains

bowl of malted barleyAdventures in Homebrewing is proud to announce an expanded offering of malted brewing grains. We now carry nearly 100 different malts and specialty grains to add to your homebrewing arsenal. We have grain products from some of the best malt producers the world has to offer, including Briess, Weyermann, Crisp, and more. Want to brew an authentic German, Belgian, or English ale? Now you can build your beer recipe around malt from the region where your favorite beer is traditionally brewed.

Adventures in Homebrewing offers malted brewing grains from the following malt houses:

  • Briess – Briess is the largest maltster in America. We carry a variety of Briess 6-row and 2-row base malts, a complete range of Briess caramel malts, and several specialty malts, including chocolate malt, Vienna malt, smoked malt, and Carapils, just to name a few.
  • Dingeman’s – Mouterij Dingeman’s is a Belgian maltster producing some of the specialty malts you’ll need for your favorite Belgian beer recipes. Use Belgian biscuit malt, special B malt, and aromatic malt to bring authenticity to your Belgian beer recipes, or add them to other recipes for a touch of complexity.
  • Gambrinus – Canadian maltster Gambrinus is famous for its honey malt, also known as “Brumalt”. As the name implies, honey malt can lend a pleasing sweetness to just about any beer. It worked great in my Flower Power IPA!
  • Weyermann – Germany’s Weyermann is one of the most well-respected maltsters in the world. We now carry 31 malts from Weyermann, from their Bohemian pilsner and pale wheat, to a chocolate rye malt and Carafa Type I, Type II and Type III. Weyermann malts can be used in any style of beer, but will really excel when recreating the traditional beers of Germany.

Our expanded of malted and unmalted grains now give the homebrewer even more control and versatility over the beers they make. Whether you brew all-grain or extract, these grains can help bring a range of character and flavor to your homemade beer.
What are some of your favorite malts for homebrewing?
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Is My Apple Cider Infected?

Basket of applesAfter being out of town for the holidays, I returned home, opened my fermentation chamber, and inspected the three ciders I have fermenting. Much to my horror, I noticed a strange growth in the blueberry/cardamom cider. Is it infected?
What’s worse, there were two components to the funkiness: a yeasty looking conglomeration near the top, floating among the blueberries, and some dusty looking business at the bottom. Surely this cider spin-off is doomed!
Or is it?
Whenever you suspect that a homemade beer or cider is infected, always give it a taste before dumping the batch. I was surprised to find that the blueberry/cardamom cider actually tasted…pretty amazing!
I’m not convinced that there isn’t some kind of microbial growth in there – this apple cider my be infected, but it would require a microscope to be sure – but a little mold or bacteria isn’t necessarily going to ruin a batch. Here’s what I did to salvage the apple cider.

Infected apple cider

One Way to Save an Apple Cider

  1. First, taste it. If it tastes ok, proceed. If not, dump the the infected apple cider and try again.
  2. Rack to another carboy, or in this case, another one-gallon jug. Use a straining bag at the base of the siphon to prevent sucking up any large chunks of funk.
  3. Increase ABV to inhibit any further growth. It just so happens a neighbor recently gave me some moonshine, so I mixed about a cup of that into the roughly 3/4 gallon of cider. Vodka would work just as well. Another option might be to add more fermentables – sugar – and increase the ABV that way. I figured the liquor would have a better shot at killing off whatever was growing in the cider.
  4. Cold crash – again, to inhibit growth of whatever infection might have been going on. I moved the jug of cider to the refrigerator in hopes that this will prevent any further growth.

So What Was Happening in the Apple Cider?Shop beer flavorings
I can only make a couple guesses. As far as the stuff on the bottom of the carboy, I’m guessing that was some kind of mold, but I can’t be sure. It looked a lot like what I saw on my first batch of cider that ultimately got dumped. As for the stuff on top, I’m guessing is was mostly yeast coagulating on the blueberries, though I’m wondering if pectin can coagulate like that. Besides, the cider is remarkably clear.
So What’s Next?
I don’t plan on taking any chances by aging this batch of apple cider, so I’m going to go ahead and bottle the blueberry/cardamom batch and enjoy it fresh. Meanwhile, the plain cider and the hopped cider seem to be nearing the end of their fermentations, so they’ll get bottled before too long.
Check back soon for the final taste tests!
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Basic Water Management for Extract Brewing: Part 3

Guest blogger Matt Chrispen shares the impact that various minerals can have on different styles of beer. To get the whole story start at Part 1 of this 3 part series.water splashed on bottle of beer
There is no hard and fast rule in the application of brewing minerals. Every person’s tastes differ. As such, we are exploring the art of “seasoning” the finished beer, like adding a little salt and pepper to your favorite dish. A little may be good, but too much could ruin the batch.
Below are some starting points for 5 gallons of extract beer. Some minerals are already concentrated in the malt extract, so we recommend using reverse osmosis (RO) or distilled (DI) water. When using tap or spring water, reduce the recommendations to taste. Fully dissolve mineral salts in water before the extract is added to boil.
Mineral Recommendations for Different Beer Styles

  • Lagers are historically brewed with soft water.
    • No mineral additions recommended.
  • Malty, Roasty Ales include browns, porters and stouts where malt flavors and sweetness are expected.
    • Add ½ tsp (~2 grams) of calcium chloride.
  • Hoppy Ales include most American pale ales, hoppy ambers, and IPAs.
    • Add ½ tsp (2 grams) to 1 tsp (4 grams) gypsum.
  • Mineral-Rich Ales include English bitters or Burton ales.

Personalizing Additions:
To determine how much mineral(s) might influence your beer, try the procedure below.

  1. Fill a clean 1-liter bottle or flask with RO water, and dissolving 2 grams of gypsum or calcium chloride. Shake to dissolve completely, creating a 2000 ppm solution of the salt.
  2. Pick a homebrew and split into four 3-ounce (89 ml) servings. Use gypsum for hoppy or calcium chloride for malty beers.
  3. Using a calibrated pipette or eyedropper, add 1 milliliter of solution into the first serving, 2 into the second, and so forth. Start with the first serving and work toward the fourth, taking notes.
  4. Decide which serving you prefer. Mark that down. If you preferred serving #4, open another beer and continue the process.
  5. Take the serving number (with equivalent number of additions) and do the math:
    1. The 1 milliliter dose equals 2 milligrams of the salt
    2. Multiply the preferred dose by 2, yielding the milligrams of salt added
    3. There are roughly 43 three-ounce samples in 5 gallons
    4. Multiply the milligrams dosed by 43, yielding milligrams needed for 5 gallons, and divide by 1000 to yield grams. 1 tsp = roughly 2 grams of gypsum or calcium chloride
    5. Use this amount of mineral salt in your next brew of that recipe!

What changes to you typically make to your brewing water?
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Series: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
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Matt Chrispen is a passionate, experienced home brewer, craft beer fanatic, and collector of brewing gear. He also maintains a blog on advanced brewing topics at Accidentalis.com.
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Sources:
A Brewing Water Chemistry Primer, Homebrewtalk.com, AJ DeLange
Water Treatment for Extract Brewers, Beerandwinejournal.com, C Colby
Water Adjustment in Highly Hopped Beers, Homebrewtalk.com, M Brungard
Calibration Series: Personalized Sulfate and Chloride in Beer, Accidentalis.com, M Chrispen
Bru’n Water, Water Knowledge, M Brungard
How to Brew, John Palmer

Cloning Ithaca Beer Co.'s Flower Power-Pt. 5: Bottling & Kegging

homebrew side by side taste testWhen we left off with the Flower Power clone, I had just finished dealing with an especially troublesome blow-off situation. Fermentation was so vigorous that it was pushing hop material into the blow-off tube and causing it to literally blow off the carboy. With that issue resolved, fermentation continued without a hitch.
Last week I dry-hopped the beer with a big dose of American hops: Simcoe, Amarillo, and Centennial. A little taste test at the time gave me high hopes for this beer!
When I dry-hopped the beer, I took a gravity sample. I was a little surprised to find the beer at 1.014, five gravity points below the estimated final gravity! It’s not a big deal, it just means that the beer will be about 8% ABV instead of 7.5%. I think it’s safe to call this IPA a double!
You may have noticed I never did a secondary fermentation with this batch. The reason? Simply because I’m out of fermenters! Between the cider and the mead I’ve got going, I’m all out! We’ll see if skipping a secondary fermentation has any negative impacts (I’m guessing it won’t).
So after about five days of dry-hopping, I decided to go ahead and package the beer.
Since I’d like to enjoy some of the beer on draft, I decided to keg half of the batch in my three-gallon keg and bottle the rest. It creates a little extra work to both keg and bottle, but now I’ll be able to send some bottles to friends and family.
Here’s the step-by-step for both bottling and kegging a batch of beer:

  1. Clean all bottles, equipment, caps, and keg. It’s a lot of cleaning, but it’s worth it. You may want to review instructions for cleaning and sanitizing a keg.
  2. Sanitize all bottles, equipment, caps, and keg.
  3. Prepare priming sugar for the bottles. I used a brewing calculator to calculate how much corn sugar to use for 2.5 gallons of beer and a digital scale to measure it out.
  4. homebrew kettleFill keg. The trick here is to have the bottling bucket cleaned, sanitized, and ready to go, so you can quickly move the tubing from the keg to the bottling bucket. (Note to self: buy one of these!)
  5. Fill bottling bucket, mixing in the priming sugar solution as beer fills the bucket.
  6. Fill and cap bottles.

 I took another little gravity sample and taste while filling. The hop flavor and aroma are huge with citrus and spice notes! This one’s going to be good!
Check back soon to get the side-by-side comparison between the Flower Power clone and the original!
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Review the whole Flower Power clone brewing process below:

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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.

Basic Water Management for Extract Brewing: Part 2

water splashed on bottle of beerGuest blogger Matt Chrispen shares some tips for adjusting water chemistry when brewing with partial mash recipes. This is part 2 of a 3 part series. To get the whole story start with Part 1.

Dry Malt Extract (DME) and Liquid Malt Extract (LME) products contain minerals from the mashing process. These minerals provide flavor nuances to the beer and the specific concentrations are proprietary to the maltster, but they directly influence the flavor and mouthfeel of recipe. Extract brewers can further enhance their recipes with additional minerals.
Introduction to Minerals for Brewing
Since the extract brewer is not mashing grain, we can focus solely on flavor components. Ion concentrations of sulfate, chloride, magnesium, and sodium influence perceived flavors and mouthfeel.

  • Gypsum or Calcium Sulfate increases calcium and sulfate ions levels. Sulfates generally enhance dryness and increase the sharpness and bitterness of hops.
  • Calcium Chloride increases calcium and chloride ion levels. Chlorides tend to round out and enrich mouthfeel and enhance malt characteristics.
  • Sea/Kosher Salts or Sodium Chloride (without iodine) increases sodium and chloride ions, and like calcium chloride can enhance sweeter malt forward beers. Not recommended for an extract brewer, except in very traditionally salty styles, such as a gose.
  • Magnesium Sulfate increases both magnesium and sulfate ions. Malt extract should contain sufficient magnesium to support healthy fermentation. Only in specific cases is magnesium sulfate useful to an extract brewer.

Water choice is important. Hard water (already rich in minerals) will add minerals into the beer in unknown amounts in addition to the extract’s contribution. By using reverse osmosis (RO) or distilled water, we can exert more control without risking off-flavors, providing a clean starting point for mineral additions.
To keep things simple, we can rely on gypsum and calcium chloride for “seasoning” our homebrew, and the resulting sulfate, chloride, and calcium ion contributions. As mentioned above:

  • Shop Water TreatmentSulfates enhance perceived dryness. Increases perceived hop bitterness and sharpness. Pale Ales and IPAs often have elevated levels of sulfates, but large amounts can be off putting.
  • Chlorides enrich perceived mouth feel and malt flavors. Many darker, malt-driven beers benefit from a small amount of chloride.
  • Calcium is beneficial in lowering the boil pH and precipitating proteins (hot and cold break). While there is no direct flavor impact, the resulting wort is clearer and more stable.

These flavors are recipe driven, and should be used appropriately and in moderation. A hoppy pale ale may need a little gypsum where a malty porter might benefit from calcium chloride.
In Part 3, we look specifically at applying these minerals to general beer styles.
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Series: Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3
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Matt Chrispen is a passionate, experienced home brewer, craft beer fanatic, and collector of brewing gear. He also maintains a blog on advanced brewing topics at Accidentalis.com.

Homebrew Hacks: How to Figure Out How Much Fuel is Left in Your Propane Tank

Propane burnerMany homebrewers enjoy using an outdoor gas burner and a propane tank for homebrewing. It’s usually faster than brewing on an electric stove and it allows you to brew outside. But how can make sure you don’t want to get caught halfway through your boil with an empty gas tank?
One method to prevent a frustrating situation is to have a spare propane tank on hand. This is definitely a good idea. But if you’re DIY-er or haven’t had that chance to exchange a tank, you might find it helpful to know whether you have enough propane to get through a brew day.
Here’s what you need in order to figure out how much fuel is left in your propane tank for homebrew day:

  • a propane tank
  • a scale with at least 40 lbs. capacity (for a 20 lb. tank)
  • records of how many brews you’ve done since the last fill up
  • a calculator

Here’s how to figure out how much propane is left in your tank:

  1. Weigh your propane tank.
  1. Check the rim of the propane tank, near the handles, for a stamp that shows the tare weight of the tank. This is usually labeled “TW.” The tare weight is the weight of the tank when it’s empty.
  1. Subtract the tare weight from the weight of the tank to find the weight of the fuel left in the tank.

Now, to calculate whether you have enough propane to get through a brew day:

  1. Determine how much fuel has been used so far by subtracting the remaining fuel from the fuel tank capacity. For example, you find that you have 5 lbs. of fuel left in the tank. Assuming the tank was a full 20 lbs. to begin with, that means you’ve gone through about 15 lbs. of fuel. (For best results, you will have weighed the tank right after you bought it to have an accurate starting point.)
  1. Take the amount of fuel that has been used so far and divide by how many brews you’ve done on that tank. Checking your homebrew notes, you know that you’ve done five brews with this tank. Divide the total fuel used (15 lbs.) by the number of brews (5) to arrive at how much fuel you typically use per brew (3 lbs.).
  1. Estimate how many brews you have remaining. Continuing with the example above, if you have 5 lbs. of fuel left and you use an average of 3 lbs. of fuel per brew, you have about 1.67 brews left in that tank (5 / 3 = 1.67). After your next brew, you should definitely refill or exchange your propane tank!

Are you curious whether propane burners save time over electric stoves when homebrewing? Check out Bryan Roth’s Water Boil ExBEERiment.
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David Ackley is a beer writer, homebrewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder of the Local Beer Blog.