Leigh Erwin: Beginner Winemaker: Part 30 – Sweetening Mead

Mead ready to be sweetenedHi everyone!
I’m kind of in a holding pattern right now in terms of my winemaking projects.  Currently, I have my first batch of mead just hanging out in secondary fermentation, and according to the instructions will leave it there for 4 weeks or so.  I’m about half way there, so things are a little boring in my house at the moment!
I would start another batch of wine, but there is just no room in the house right now due to all the stuff laying around everywhere for my upcoming wedding.  So, instead of just sitting around like a bump on a log, I’ve decide to do a little preliminary research on something that I think I would like to try once the secondary fermentation of my mead is over.
Basically, I think I’d like sweetening my mead a little bit once fermentation is over.  I’ve never actually had a dry mead before, so I’m a little nervous about what that might taste like.  I still have a little bit of honey left over from when I mixed all the ingredients at the beginning of primary fermentation, so it’d be perfect to just go ahead and use that for sweetening the finished product once it’s done.
So, how do I go about sweetening a mead?
Everything that I’ve read stresses the importance of making sure fermentation is completely finished before adding the extra honey for sweetening the finished wine.  If there is even a little bit of yeast still kicking in there, the sugary goodness from the added honey may very well start the fermentation going again, which is definitely an undesirable outcome.  That being said, I think I’ll leave my mead in the carboy for a little bit extra time than listed on the instructions, just in case!  It’s been fairly warm in my place so far this summer (never going above 75F), so I’m thinking that might keep things on the speedier side in terms of fermentation rates.
Potassium SorbateMy research also indicates that when sweetening a mead I need to add a couple of compounds to be extra certain that fermentation has stopped.  One is potassium sorbate, while the other is potassium metabisulfite.  Once I add these compounds (per the instructions listed by the manufacturer), I am supposed to let the mead sit for a couple of days to be super sure fermentation is done.
Finally, once that’s all done, I’m reading that I’ll need to add about 1 cup of honey per 5 gallons of mead.  Since I have exactly 5 gallons, this step will be super easy.
Do any of you have any advice for sweetening a mead?  If, in your experience, you’ve found a better way to do it, feel free to chime in!  Cheers!

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Leigh ErwinMy name is Leigh Erwin, and I am a brand-spankin’ new home winemaker! E. C. Kraus has asked me to share with you my journey from a first-time dabbler to an accomplished home winemaker. From time to time I’ll be checking in with this blog and reporting my experience with you: the good, bad — and the ugly.

English Ordinary Bitter Beer Recipe (Extract)

Ordinary Beer BeerThe extract beer recipe blow is for making an English ordinary bitter which is a style of English pale ale. English pale ales are divided into categories based on strength and bitterness, with ordinary bitter being the most sessionable, followed by special bitter and extra special bitter, or ESB. In general, English pale ales tend to be less hoppy and more yeast driven than American pale ales. An English ordinary bitter would be a great beer to have on hand year round.
The BJCP Style Guidelines for Standard/Ordinary Bitter call for the following specs: Continue reading

Tips for Labeling Your Own Beer Bottles

Labeling your beer bottles with personalized labels.Have you ever thought about upgrading your bottled homebrew with a customized beer label? It’s not very difficult!
Whether you want to bring a bottle of homebrew to a homebrew club night or dress up some homebrew beer as gifts, there are several options at your disposal for labeling your own beer bottles.
“Quick Fix” Beer Bottle Labels
If you just need a quick and easy way to label your beer bottles, try one of these “quick and dirty” methods:

  • Post-it® note with rubber band – When I just need to label my beer bottles for a bottle share, I write the name and description of the beer on a Post-it® note and put a rubber band around it. It’s not pretty, but it works! Continue reading

Leigh Erwin: Beginner Winemaker: Part 29 – A Fermenting Mead

Making Mead RecipeHi everyone!  I’m sitting here smelling the sweet smells of fermentation right now, and just pondering how it’s going to all turn out!  In case you forgot or did not read my previous entries, I am attempting to make my first mead at home after trying grape kits for a little while.
Fermentation seemed to get off to a great start—it was doing it’s thing by 24 hours after adding the yeast, which is exactly what I expected based upon the mead recipe I had. I’m a little nervous; however, as the smell of this particular fermentation is not as “nice” as the smells of the other fermentations I’ve done in the past.  Of course, I’m using a completely different product (honey as opposed to grape juice), so I would expect the mead fermentation to smell a little different, however, since I’ve never made mead before, nor have I ever smelled honey fermentation, I’m not sure if what I’m smelling is normal or if what I’m smelling means bad news bears.
Now, it basically smells like fermentation, but with a little bitter-like tinge to it.  I don’t know if bitter is quite the proper word to describe it, but it definitely smells a lot different than when I fermented with grape juice.  I’m probably just being paranoid and the mead is fermenting along its merry way just as it is supposed to, but I’m just a teeny bit nervous anyway!  It kind of reminds me of the smell my fiancé’s “wine” made when he just threw a bunch of things together without following any kind of instructions.  I’m hoping my honey wine will continue to develop along a more palatable path than my fiancé’s wine did. Continue reading

Wine Recipe For Making Wine With A Steam Juicer

Fruit Juice In Canning JarsI have started using a steam juicer with my fresh fruit. Most of the wine recipes that I find call for whole fruit with pulp. Can you recommend a wine recipe using the fruit juice? Should I be able to use a wine recipe that calls for fruit concentrate?…
Name: Missy H.
State: Mississippi
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Hello Missy,
For what ever reason, almost all wine recipes you run across will call for the fruit in pounds not in ounces of juice.
The reason for this is that normally you would have the wine recipe in hand before getting the fruit. This makes pounds of fruit the most beneficial form of information at that point. If you where going to the market to get some raspberries to make some wine and your wine recipe calls for 1 gallon of raspberry juice to make 5 gallons, that wouldn’t be very helpful when trying to figure out how much fresh raspberries you need.
Your situation is the reverse and the least common scenario. You have the juice that you extracted with your steam juicer and now have decided to make some wine. It normally works the other way around.
Another reason wine recipes call for the fruit in pounds is because wine recipe directions instruct that all the fruit is to be added to the wine must, pulp and all. It is simply crushed and added. The reason the pulp is added is because a lot of a fruit’s flavor qualities are in the skin and fiber. During the fermentation the fruit is broken down by the wine yeast, releasing all its goodness.
Steam JuicerWhile you can make a perfectly good wine with the juice only, it will be a crisp-tasting, lighter-boded wine. The perfect type of wine for drinking in the hotter summer months or before dinner. If you want to utilize your steam juicer to make a fuller-bodied wine, you will want to save the fruit pulp after juicing and add it to the wine must as well.
Missy, you also mentioned using a wine concentrate recipe and using your fruit juice from the steam juicer in place of the concentrate. This is not a viable option either. Concentrated juices are much more concentrated than what your steam juicer is producing. What is coming out of the steam juicer should be consider to be fruit juice, no different than if the fruit had been crush then pressed in a wine press. Actual concentrates are 3 to 5 times more concentrated than what is coming out of your steam juicer.
So in the future if you want to make wine with the juice from you steam juicer, you will want to weigh the fruit first. This is the only way you will be able to use any wine recipes you come across.
Best Wishes,
Ed Kraus
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Ed Kraus is a 3rd generation home brewer/winemaker and has been an owner of E. C. Kraus since 1999. He has been helping individuals make better wine and beer for over 25 years.

Introducing Steam Freak Buddy Light (A Bud Light Homebrew Clone Recipe)

Bud Light Clone Beer Recipe KitWith summer, comes yardwork, and with yardwork, comes sweat. Everyone needs a cold one after a long, hot day in the yard. What some drinkers affectionately refer to as “lawnmower beer” is criticized by others as lacking in flavor and body. But sometimes, that’s exactly what you need – something light and easy that won’t make you fall off your rider.
The Steam Freak Buddy Light Kit fits the bill perfectly. Light in color with low hop bitterness, it’s a clone beer ingredient kit for making the ever-popular Bud Light American light lager. Apparently Peyton Manning is a fan. You will likely find that this version is even better than the real thing!
This is an extract ingredient kit that does not require a lot of apparatus to brew. In fact, brewing an extract beer recipe is pretty straight forward.
Save as much as 25% by buying this clone beer ingredient kit compared to the individual items! After you brew a batch of this, you may actually look forward to mowing the lawn!
Steam Freak Buddy Light   
(extract with specialty grains, five-gallon batch)
Specifications 
Style: American Light Lager
Target OG: 1.037
Target FG: 1.008
ABV: 4%
IBUs (Bitterness): 10
Ingredients  
3.3 lbs. Light Liquid Malt Extract
1.0 lbs. Light Dried Malt Extract
8 oz. Cara-Pils Dextrine
1 oz. Hallertau
1 Fermentis Safale US-05
Also included in this kit:
Grain Bag
Bottle Caps
Priming Sugar
Beer Ingredient Kit Directions: Preboil and chill about 2 gallons of water. Clean and sanitize all equipment. Place crushed specialty grains in the included grain bag and steep in three gallons of clean water for 30 minutes at 150ºF. Remove grains and discard. Mix in malt extracts while stirring. Bring wort to a boil. Add hops and boil for thirty minutes. Stir wort to create a whirlpool and chill to about 70F. This can be done with an ice bath or a wort chiller. Pour wort into a sanitized fermenter, leaving sediment behind in the brew kettle. Mix in enough preboiled water to make five gallons and stir with a sanitized spoon. Pitch yeast by sprinkling directly into wort. Seal fermenter with a sanitized lid and airlock and ferment at about 60ºF for two weeks. Bottle and condition for two weeks.
*Due to the challenges of fermentation temperature control for lagers, the Steam Freak beer ingredient kit includes a popular dry ale yeast with this beer recipe kit. Do your best to ferment the beer at the low end of the yeast’s temperature range: 59-65ºF is ideal. Safale US-05 will still ferment as high at 75ºF with decent results, but lower temperatures will produce a cleaner beer with less yeast characteristics. If you are able to ferment at lager temperatures, you might consider Wyeast 2007: Pilsen Lager.
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David Ackley is a beer writer, brewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder and editor of the Local Beer Blog.

Leigh Erwin: Beginner Winemaker: Part 28 – Starting A Mead

Honey For Making MeadHi everyone!
I’m excited to be starting a new batch of wine today!  In case you missed it, my new batch of wine is going to be honey wine (a.k.a. Mead).  I ordered 15 pounds of honey online (the mead recipe called for 13 lbs, so I’ll have a little left over in case I want to sweeten it at the end), and also purchased the few wine making ingredients required that I did not have already (mainly the yeast and the yeast energizer).
For this next batch of wine, I made a fresh batch of sanitizing solution (with the Campden powder) and sterilized all my wine making equipment.  I downloaded and printed the Mead Wine recipe instructions from Homebrewing.org and launched right into it!
For the first step, I basically had to mix together everything except for the wine yeast.  Since I was adding Campden powder (same as crushed Campden tablets), I was required to wait 24 hours in order for the gas to have ample time to leave the container.  If I had added the wine yeast at the same time as adding the Campden powder, then I would have run the risk of killing the it right then and there.
I measured out 13 pounds of the honey by determining how many cups of honey are in a pound, and added that many cups.  I ended up with a couple of pounds left over, since I originally ordered 15 pounds, so if I decide at the end that I’d like to sweeten the mead up a little bit, I have the perfect ingredient to do it!
After mixing all the ingredients, I covered the primary fermenter with a thin towel.  Now, since I have inquisitive animals milling about my apartment, I made sure to securely fasten the town to the fermenter using duct tape, so as to avoid any accidental “sampling”.
Wine HydrometerAccording to the instructions, I was to wait 24 hours for the sulfur gas (from the Campden powder) to dissipate, and then add the yeast.  Right before I added the yeast, however, I measured the specific gravity with my wine hydrometer, even though the instructions did not tell me to do so.  I figured it would be a good bit of information to have, so as to better monitor the progress of the fermentation, and for later on when I attempt to calculate the approximate alcohol content of the finished mead.  So, after measuring the specific gravity right before adding the yeast, it came out to be 1.096.  Right about where it should be, based on my very limited experience!
After adding the yeast, I secured the thin towel back over the primary fermenter and put it to bed for 5-7 days!  I could tell the next morning that there were tiny signs that fermentation was about to begin, and sure enough, by the 24 hour mark, the mead was fermenting at full force (as predicted by the instructions)!
I’m looking forward to the next phase of this homemade Mead wine, and I’m crossing my fingers it all turns out yummy!

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Leigh ErwinMy name is Leigh Erwin, and I am a brand-spankin’ new home winemaker! E. C. Kraus has asked me to share with you my journey from a first-time dabbler to an accomplished home winemaker. From time to time I’ll be checking in with this blog and reporting my experience with you: the good, bad — and the ugly.

What's The Difference Between Apple Wine And Apple Cider?

Jugs Of Apple Cider, Not Apple WineWhat is the difference between apple wine and apple cider? Is the recipe different? Is the manufacturing procedures different?
Name: Clifton C.
State: Texas
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Hello Clif,
Apple wine, apple cider and hard cider are sometimes used to mean the same thing by some people. There is no difference as to how some people use these terms. One person may say apple cider, meaning apple wine; someone else may say apple cider, meaning hard cider. And to make it more convoluted, sometimes apple cider means just plain ole apple juice.
So just what is the difference between apple wine and apple cider? The information below should help to clear this up:

  • Apple Cider: 
    In the United States, it means the same as apple juice. You can go to some markets in parts of the country and see apple juice and apple cider side by side. Some areas of the U.S. will make the distinction that apple juice has gone through filtration and pasteurization whereas apple cider has not. It is straight, raw apple juice.
  • Hard Cider: 
    This is apple juice or apple cider that has been allowed to ferment. The natural sugars in the apple juice ferment to an alcohol level that runs somewhere around 3% to 6%. It is interesting to note that in most English-speaking countries — other than the U.S. — hard cider is just called apple cider. It is assumed that if you have raw apple juice it has probably gone hard. Hard cider is very easy to make and can even be sparkled in beer bottles.
  • Apple Wine:  
    This is a hard apple juice as well, but it is much higher in alcohol. It is essentially apple juice that has gone through the same process as you would making wine. The acidity is adjusted. Nutrients are used. And, it is bottled and aged. But, most significant of all is sugar is added to the fermentation to bring up the final alcohol level of the apple wine. Most are around 10% to 12%. Try making apple wine yourself.

It is also helpful to understand that there is a difference between how apple wine and apple cider keep and age.
Hard cider needs to be consumed more quickly than apple wine. The lower level of alcohol makes it less stable. The use of sulfites and maybe even constant refrigeration will help in this regard, but even at that you will discover that apple cider is a drink that is to be consumed in weeks and months, not years.
Apple wine on the other hand is more stable. It has a higher alcohol content which makes it less susceptible to spoilage and general flavor deterioration. Having said this, you should still use sulfites when making it — just like you would with any other wine you make. And just like most wines, you will find that it will taste a little harsh at bottle time. It needs time to age out its harshness. Typically, an apple wine will be very drinkable at around 3 months of aging and at its best at around 9 months.
So, that’s essentially what the difference is between apple wine and apple cider. I hope this clears things up for you and that this was the information you was looking for.
Happy Winemaking,
Ed Kraus
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Ed Kraus is a 3rd generation home brewer/winemaker and has been an owner of E. C. Kraus since 1999. He has been helping individuals make better wine and beer for over 25 years.

American Wheat Beer Recipe (All-Grain & Extract)

American Wheat Homebrew BeerOne of the most well known styles of wheat beer is German weizen, but that’s not the only kind there is. Unlike weizen, American-style wheat beer uses a relatively clean fermenting American ale yeast instead of the banana/clove German weizen yeast. It may be a case of personal preference, but the American wheat beer recipe offers a wheaty flavor without the phenolic overtones.
American wheat beer is a great beer for summer, typically light in color and light to medium-bodied. While hop bitterness and flavor are certainly present in this style, they’re generally not the main feature in American wheat beer. The American ale yeast tends to be somewhat neutral, but may present some mild fruity characteristics. Popular examples of American wheat beer include Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat and Goose Island 312 Urban Wheat Ale.
The BJCP Style Guidelines for an American wheat beer recipe call for the following specs:

  • OG: 1.040 – 1.055
  • FG: 1.008 – 1.013
  • IBU: 15 – 30
  • SRM: 3 – 6
  • ABV: 4 – 5.5%

When brewing an all-grain American wheat beer, rice hulls are recommended to help avoid a stuck mash. John Palmer recommends rinsing the rice hulls before use.
The American wheat beer recipe below makes a fairly straightforward beer. Sparge with hot water (possibly hotter than normal) to help avoid a stuck sparge. If you’re a fan of hops flavor and aroma, consider adding some hops additions later in the boil.
Good luck!
American Wheat II, from Brew Your Own magazine
(5-gallon batch, all-grain recipe)
Specs
OG = 1.051
FG = 1.012
ABV = 5.1%
IBU = 21
SRM = 3.5
Ingredients
5.8 lbs. malted wheat
4.6 lbs. two-row brewer’s malt
8 oz. rice hulls
1 oz. Cascade hops at :60
Wyeast 1010: American Wheat Beer yeast
Directions
The day before brewing, prepare a 2L yeast starter from one packet of liquid yeast, or plan on using two packets. Mash crushed grains at 150˚F for 60 minutes. Sparge with hot (~190˚F) water to collect 5.75 gallons of wort. Boil for 60 minutes, adding one ounce of Cascade hops at the beginning of the boil. At end of boil, cool wort to 70˚F or below and transfer to a clean, sanitized fermenter. Ferment at 70˚F. Bottle or keg and carbonate to 2.3-2.5 vols CO2.
American Wheat Beer Recipe Kit
Easy Extract Option: Replace the malted wheat and two-row malt with 7.3 lbs. of Wheat LME and omit the rice hulls.
Looking for an American wheat beer recipe kit? Try the Steam Freak: Amber Waves American Wheat Beer kit!
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David Ackley is a beer writer, brewer, and self-described “craft beer crusader.” He holds a General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling and is founder and editor of the Local Beer Blog.

How Do I Make My Wine More Peppery?

Peppery Flavor In WineHow can I get more of a peppery taste in my wine kit?
Name: Anthony B.
State: TN
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Hello Anthony,
Having a peppery taste or flavor in a wine is something that comes from the grape itself. It has little to do with the yeast you select, the temperature at which you ferment, and all the other little subtleties that can be played with during the winemaking process. It’s all about the grape.
Pepper is normally a note you will find in a Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a varietal wine meaning Cabernet Sauvignon is an actual grape variety. You can get hints of pepper in other wines — a Shiraz for example — but most wine drinkers will associate a pepper taste with a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Some Cabs are more peppery than others. This has to do with where the Cabernet Sauvignon grape was grown. The ground and climate both play a distinct role in how the grapes flavor profile develops. The French refer to this as the terroir.
For example, Cabs grown in the Old World such as France and Italy tend to produce Cabernet Sauvignons deep, earthy characters. The pepper flavor of these wines lean more towards an herbaceous, green pepper flavor. Their counterparts from the United States and Australia tend to be a little more fruity with the peppery leaning more towards black pepper. Of course there are many examples to the contrary, but this is what you can expect in general.
Another factor that can play into this for the home winemaker is time. Some flavors just need time to develop. By allowing your wine time to age, it may very well enhance the peppery flavors you are seeking. Unfortunately, this is not likely to be any help if the wine kit you made is not a Cabernet Sauvignon. There has to be something there to build upon for the aging to help you in this regard.
Wine Ingredient KItsAnthony,  I would suggest that you take a look at a couple of different wine kits we offer. They are both known to have great pepper flavor profiles. The first one is the Cabernet Sauvignon wine ingredient kit grown in Walla Walla Washington state. Not only does this one have a solid note of black pepper, it also has a complex layer of anise and coffee that balances well with it’s fruit-forward flavors.
The other wine ingredient kit is the Legacy brand Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a good peppery character, but not quite as fruity as the Walla Walla version — not quite as assertive. It more laid-back and rich.
One wine kit is not necessarily better than the other. It’s more a matter of personal preference. For example, many wine drinkers do not like a pepper taste in their wine at all. Others want their homemade wines to be bold and spicy. Just learn what you like and go with it.
Happy Wine Making,
Ed Kraus
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Ed Kraus is a 3rd generation home brewer/winemaker and has been an owner of E. C. Kraus since 1999. He has been helping individuals make better wine and beer for over 25 years.